Palak Paneer

The spinach goes into boiling water and comes out one minute later, shockingly green. Into ice it goes, and it stays that colour. Later the ghee heats, the cumin cracks, garlic turns gold, and the whole kitchen smells of it. The green puree goes in and hisses. Paneer cubes drop in at the very end, still soft. You spoon it onto a plate next to a hot phulka and the green is the first thing anyone notices.

The tadka is made in Gir Cow's A2 Ghee. Spinach on its own is thin and flat tasting, and the fat is what carries it. Ghee browns the garlic without burning it and rounds off the slight metallic edge that palak can leave behind. A last spoon of hot ghee poured over the dish just before serving is what dhabas do, and it is worth doing at home.

The rule that decides this dish: one minute of blanching, then straight into ice water. Boiled spinach turns olive brown and tastes bitter, and no cream will bring it back. After the puree goes into the pan, keep it to six or seven minutes on medium and no more.

How to make it

1. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil with a pinch of salt. Drop in the spinach, push it under and count 60 seconds. No longer.
2. Lift the spinach straight into the ice water. Leave it 1 minute, then squeeze out most of the water with your hands. Blend with 1 green chilli and half the ginger into a thick, smooth puree, adding 2 tbsp water only if the blender needs it.
3. If your paneer feels firm, drop the cubes in warm salted water for 10 minutes and drain just before using. This is the difference between soft paneer and rubbery paneer.
4. Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a kadhai. Add the cumin and let it crackle. Add the chopped garlic and fry 30 seconds to pale gold, then the onion. Fry on medium for 5 to 6 minutes until soft and light golden at the edges.
5. Add the chopped ginger, tomato, turmeric and chilli powder with a pinch of salt. Cook 4 to 5 minutes until the tomato breaks down and you see ghee at the sides of the pan.
6. Pour in the spinach puree and 1/2 cup water. Add the rest of the salt and the slit green chilli. Cook on medium for 6 to 7 minutes only, stirring. It will thicken and darken slightly. Stop here.
7. Slide in the paneer cubes and the cream if using. Stir gently, cook 2 minutes just to warm the paneer through, then switch off. Add the garam masala and lemon juice.
8. Heat the last 1 tbsp ghee in a small pan, throw in the ginger strips for 10 seconds and pour the lot over the palak paneer. Serve at once with roti, naan or jeera rice.

Tips

• We do not sell paneer. Buy fresh malai paneer from a good dairy, or set your own from 2 litres of full-fat milk with lemon juice. Vacuum-packed paneer that has been sitting for weeks stays hard no matter what you do.
• Make ahead: the spinach base keeps 2 days in the fridge and freezes for a month. Add the paneer only when you reheat, otherwise it goes chewy.
• No paneer? Use tofu or boiled potato cubes. Firm tofu, pressed dry and pan-fried in a little ghee, sits happily in this gravy.
• If your palak turns dark and bitter, you boiled it instead of blanching it, or you simmered the puree too long. Next time set a timer for 60 seconds and keep the ice bowl ready before you start.
• Do not add lemon while it is on heat. Acid on a hot flame dulls the green. Squeeze it in after you switch off.